We all love our vintage electronics but the one inevitable part of collecting and using this stuff is that it starts to age. Sometimes we get lucky and things seem to hold up pretty well over the years, while others just look plain nasty. One of the most common issues is the yellowing of plastics on computers and other hardware like the Super Nintendo (SNES).
Ok, so the big question here is why is this happening at all? What’s causing my stuff to turn yellow?
Well, someone actually asked Nintendo this very question and this is the response that they got:
Hi!
Thank you for contacting us. That’s an interesting question! For the Super NES, this is a normal condition and no cause for alarm. Cleaning or handling the system will have minimal impact to change or revive the original color.
The Super NES, as well as our other systems, are made with a plastic containing flame-retardant chemicals to meet safety guidelines. Over time, the plastic will age and discolor both because of these chemicals as well as from the normal heat generated from the product or exposure to light. Because of the light color of the plastic of the SNES and NES, this discoloration is more easily seen than with other darker plastics such as on the N64 and the Nintendo GameCube.
Thanks for your email!
Nintendo of America Inc.
Casey Ludwig
That’s actually a fairly accurate answer as to what’s happening to our old electronics but it’s not just light and or heat that’s causing it, but also exposure to air itself. It’s pretty much unavoidable. The only time you may not have a yellowing piece of hardware is if you were lucky enough to get a balanced batch of plastic. To get a more detailed answer as to what’s going on you can get a Doctor’s official answer at VintageComputing.
Now that we know that’s causing it, let’s fix it!
There are many methods you can use to remove yellowing but the method that seems to be the most effective is the use of Hydrogen Peroxide. The big issue with using Hydrogen Peroxide is that it’s a liquid and it doesn’t stay in the area you apply it, it just runs off and makes a mess. Another problem is that the stuff you buy at the store is too diluted and therefore not strong enough to get the job done. The solution to this problem is to make a Hydrogen Peroxide gel that has a higher percentage of Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) in it. This will allow you to easily put the gel on the section of plastic that you’re trying to fix.
So how do you make the gel? Here’s the best part, you don’t need to. You can actually use hair developer cream, which you can get from SallyBeauty.
Here’s what you will need:
- A clean workspace with adequate ventilation.
- Plastic Gloves / Eye Protection
- Plastic Wrap
- Salon Care 40 Volume Cream Developer (Read the safety precautions on the developer to protect yourself)
- A UV Light Source
- Lot’s of Time
Depending on what your trying to clean up you may need a lot of developer, so make sure you get a larger bottle.
If you can, carefully take off the plastic parts that you are trying to clean to avoid damaging the electronics inside. If you can’t take things apart or don’t want to, then just be careful and be smart about where you place the developer.
Once the parts have a good coating of developer on them, place a piece of plastic wrap over them to avoid any evaporation and to keep things in place.
Turn on your UV light source and make sure that the affected area is getting plenty of light. For best results, wait for 24 to 36 hours before cleaning off the developer.
*Tip:
Once you have finished the process you should find that much of the yellowing has gone away. This doesn’t mean it’s gone for good though, the plastics are still composed of the same chemicals as before and will eventually begin to yellow again. Your best bet, if you want to avoid cleaning them again, is to slow down the process by applying a spray-on UV protectant coating.
**This project is something you can do at home, but you do so at your own risk!
The plastic wrap left bleach like stains on it. Any idea how to remove them?
Bleach stains kinda stays
I suffer the same problem, I prefer my yellowish SNES instead of the bleached out grey… the best solution I find to prevent the bleach stains on the plastic is to put all the yellow plastic parts on a plastic box and seal the box with plastic film and put it on direct sun light for not more than 2 hours.
I had the same problem with 3 Snes Systems I purchased at a local Flea Market. All 3 Game Systems were badly stained up inside and outside. I completely broke them down, writing down where every piece went, where every screw goes, ETC, until I had only the plastic bottom and top to work with. (The Stained Parts!!) I put tape over the Labels located on the bottom side and backside of the bottom compartment. I wasn’t sure if the label was liquid proof or not. Didn’t want to ruin or peel the label off. I tried everything, soaking them in Bleach, Bleach leaves a white film on it. Peroxide helps, still has light noticeable staining. I even used Goof off spray, it removes a lot of the stains but leaves streaks of brown that it did not remove, Use with caution… I finally got 95% of the stains out by doing this. Call this crazy. After taping up the labels, spraying it with goof off and realizing that I had one big ugly mess. I had an idea, I just repaired and painted my Firebird quarter panel and I wondered if the stains on the Super Nintendo would come out just like paint comes off a car when you use a block with sand paper. I was surprised to find out that it does remove the stains, I was able to remove all stains with no ruff spots, Only problem with this is getting into the nooks and cranny’s and it removes that Glossy Shine. Looks very Nice, you can’t tale I’ve hand sanded it but, like I said it doesn’t have that glossy shine like new. Plus you half to think of the cost of sand paper and it is time consuming. I sprayed it with goof off, let it soak 20 mins. Rinsed with water and dried, then sand paper. I used 100 gritt sand paper to remove the heavy staining and then 400 fine Gritt to make sure all was smooth. Taping over the labels will protect them from getting scuffed by sand paper. Do not spray goof off on anything but the plastic that is stained. Do not spray on purple buttons they will turn a light dull purple color, do not spray on any label, sticker or Logo cause it will remove it. Do this at your own risk, I am not responsible to the outcome or damage to your game console. Use Caution and stay safe using chemicals. Use a mask while sanding and do this in a open area. Where gloves and safety glasses. Keep all work material up and away from children. I plan to buy some clear gloss to restore the game systems shine. I will post if it is successful. S2P
I’m wayyy late to the game, but great info! I was going to spend hours trying this, but I’m thinking now I’ll pass.
McGuire’s buffing compound and wax. That’s what I used to restore the shine on electronics or to fix the paint transfer on vacuum cleaners from where they bump into quarter round and such. I also use it on the clear acrylic brush roll section on vacuums like sharks to make it perfect and clear again. I attach a small foam buffing wheel to a high-speed hand drill, apply a little rubbing compound (personally I like McGuire’s ultimate compound as I don’t have to wax afterwards) and lightly buff the areas until they look new.
Instead of doing this, i figured the best way was to just buy a new casing for 20 dollars on ebay. Within a month i had a brand new looking snes
After just just reading the comment from the guy who used sand paper and goof off……good lord THIS is the right answer!! lol
THANKS!
I have one of those verilux full spectrum lamps, would that be ok for the light needed?